There are three factors that Josh Hagemeister says can up your odds of catching more and larger pike this ice fishing season.

Nothing is more fun than pulling a big pike through a hole in the ice. Even the smaller “eater-sized” pike are a blast to catch through a hole. Although it is quite easy to catch numbers of pike, the trick is getting into the bigger fish (10 pounds plus).

Factor #1—Choosing the right body of water is crucial

Not every lake has the ability to grow numbers of big pike (10 pounds and over). I look for lakes that have larger surface areas combined with large amounts of deep, clear, cool water to help these bruisers cruise through the warm summer months.

Once pike hit a certain size (roughly the 7-pound range), they require cooler water temperatures to survive. Once they get big, they are kind of like salmon; they look for comfort zones in the 50- to 55-degree range. Throughout the summer months, these cooler water temps are found in deep water, the thermocline, or near sources of natural springs.

Once fall rolls around and the lakes freeze, these temps are easily found in the shallows, which is why big pike return there from the depths. This explains why more big pike are caught by anglers in spring, fall and, of course, winter.

Bigger, deeper lakes also provide the needed forage to support big pike. This forage consists of open-water nomadic baitfish like the northern ciscoes or tullibees. Small pike that live in shallower warmer water (67 to 75 degrees) can survive by eating nothing but small panfish or perch. Once pike reach the 7-pound range, however, their diet changes with location; thus, tullibees are on the menu. I’m not saying that shallow-bowl prairie lakes down the street with a max depth of 17 feet will not have a big pike in them; they will—just not many of them. The short of it is, if you’re after numbers of big pike through the ice this winter, spend more time on the type of lakes I have mentioned so far.

Once a lake has been chosen, it’s time to zero in on an actual fishing spot—the fun part!

Factor #2—Location, location, location

Big pike are aggressive cold-water eating machines that need at least two things: food and shelter. Big, shallow, weedy flats with quick access (moderate to steep breaks) to deep water (30 feet plus) fit the bill.

Look at your lake map/chip/chart and note the locations of the biggest flats near deep water. Personally, I like a 15-acre minimum for reference. Depth can vary from lake to lake, but it’s generally in the 6- to 12-foot range. This is also the prime depth that grows thick cabbage and coontail weeds—the shelter part of the deal for both the pike and their forage.

Now that the big pike are using these shallow weed beds, they are eating more perch, bluegills, crappies and bass than tullibees. Once the hot spot has been found and a couple dozen holes are drilled throughout the weed bed and along the breakline, get out your tackle and start rigging up the presentation of choice.

Factor #3—Presentation is key

Live bait, dead bait or artificial baits are all important tools to catch a big pike. I like to use a two-punch approach—a set line like a live/dead bait rig stationed in a hole or holes, while I “hole hop” among other holes, actively working artificial baits at the same time (if two or more lines can be used while ice fishing). A live bait rig consists of a large, lively minnow on a tip-up, rod/reel/slip bobber combo, or a fish house wall-mounted rattle reel.

From my experiences, there is no doubt that large shiner minnows out-produce other minnows when it comes to pike through the ice. A close second is the popular sucker minnow, which are much easier to find. When using suckers, I try to use a minimum length of 6 inches, but will use up to “muskie size” sucker minnows in the 15-inch range.

I do not use a “quick strike” rig on minnows under 8 inches in length, as I feel they cause the minnow to tire out faster as they try to swim with all the hardware attached to them. Minnows over 8 inches in length definitely require a quick strike rig to help increase the odds of a hook up. In either scenario, I like to incorporate fluorescent red or chartreuse colored hooks in sizes 1 or 2. Pike are extremely sight-orientated feeders, so bright color can help. Adding a tiny silver spinner blade next to the hook(s) can also help add some fish-attracting flash as the minnow darts around.

Pike are also scavengers, and at times can be found eating dead fish off the bottom of the lake. Dead bait like a ciscoes, smelt, or suckers (or whatever is legal in your area), suspended on a live bait rig system, can be deadly. A dead bait rig is also a productive presentation option.

Another option is an uncooked hot dog! Simply hook the hot dog like you would actual live or dead bait.

When setting the depth of your presentation, keep in mind the 30 percent rule. If the bottom depth is 10 feet deep, set the bait depth at around 7 feet down, or roughly 3 feet or 30 percent of the bottom depth off of the bottom. This helps any pike cruising the bottom, or even suspended a little bit, to see the bait. Pike feed upwards most efficiently, like most fish do. I tend to scatter the live/dead bait rig(s) throughout the weed bed while I “hole hop” along the break line, actively working artificial baits.

Jigging spoons, plastic swim baits on lead head jigs, king-sized Rat-L-Traps jigged vertically, and Jigging Raps are all great active tools to trigger those undecided fish, along with catching the most active fish in the area. Pike cannot resist any of these baits in brightly colored or flashy patterns. Remember, even on a sunny day, it is a dark world under a sheet of ice with snow on it; hence, bright colors and rattle baits can really help catch fish—especially pike!

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