Joe Henry trolls versatile ‘crawler harnesses for Lake of the Woods summer walleyes.

One technique that has become an absolute “go-to” in my walleye catching tool belt for summer walleyes is the ‘crawler harness. ‘Crawler harnesses are extremely effective, can be used in a variety of depths and are absolute walleye-catching machines.

Like many walleye techniques, nuances or attention to detail can make a big difference. Fishing harnesses is no different.

The bottom bouncer

There are number of ways to present your ‘crawler harness where walleyes are living. Ninety percent of my ‘crawler harness fishing is done with a 2-ounce bottom bouncer, which works well pulling over rocks and rubble. Two ounces is a perfect-sized bouncer, as it offers versatility in working various depths. It can be effectively pulled in 5 feet or as deep as 30 feet of water. The ability to work up and down drop-offs, on the edges of reefs or along a weed line while maintaining contact with the bottom at about a 45-degree angle is crucial.

To fish a ‘crawler harness effectively over rocks, I let my rod tip back periodically to feel the bouncer touch bottom. By touching bottom periodically, I know exactly where my bouncer is, yet I don’t drag the bottom to avoid snags and debris.

Bouncers are also effective in sparse weeds where many walleyes hide out a good part of the year. The bouncer will ride through and over weeds which also can be an attractant for the spinner and ‘crawler following close behind.

If I am fishing an area with deeper water around the 30-foot-plus depth, I go to a heavier 3-ounce bouncer, which allows me to easily keep that 45-degree line angle, which is important.

The harness

For most situations, purchase a variety of two-hook harnesses and you will be in good shape. I tie my own so that I’m sure it is tied properly and secure. I also like to make my own bead patterns, choose my line, length of harness, etc. If you’re buying ready made harnesses, look for ones with quick-change clevises to switch out blades, fluorocarbon line and effective bead patterns.

Most of my harnesses are 4 to 6 feet long. I prefer longer harnesses in clear water. If I want to shorten a harness when fishing stained water or for snaggy situations, I simply snip off a bit on the end opposite the hooks and retie the loop or swivel.

With the properties of fluorocarbon line, I can get away with heavier line and normally go with 15-pound test. Stronger line helps combat the fish’s sharp teeth and fins during a tough fight. It also serves me well when pulling through rocks and wood, etc.

A bit heavier test fluorocarbon also keeps the harness running straighter with less tendency of tangling. The line is virtually invisible in the water; a little bit thicker diameter doesn’t seem to matter. It is also a benefit when the fish shakes its head with the hooks caught in the net; the line doesn’t break.

I like #2 or #4 octopus style hooks. I normally tie the hooks about 1.5 to 2 inches apart. This allows me to insert one hook in the head of the crawler and the other near the band of the ‘crawler. Ideally, I want the ‘crawler running straight in the water.

If you have interest in tying your own harnesses, I recommend searching YouTube; there are many great videos on how to do so.

Beads, quick-change clevises and blades

I like to have a variety of harnesses available with a different bead sizes and colors. If you are fishing with a partner, start out with different bead color patterns and spinners and begin to “hone in” on what the fish want that day. It is not a bad idea to “match the hatch” if you know what the walleyes are feeding on.

By tying or purchasing your harnesses with a quick-change clevis, you can very easily change the size, style and colors of blade. My personal tendency is to use a #2 Colorado style blade in early season or in very clear water. As the water temps increase, I increase my blade size to a #4 or #6 Colorado in hammered gold or pink.

Speed and angle

The go-to speed for pulling a harness is 1.25 mph. I will range from 1.0 to 1.6, but most of the time, 1.25 is key. I really focus on having a 45-degree line angle when fishing a bouncer and harness.

A 45-degree angle allows me maximum control to feel the bottom. The opportunity to periodically drop my rod tip back to touch the bottom with the bouncer, yet not drag the bouncer on the bottom, is key. I prefer having the bouncer ride just above the bottom, even if the fish are tight to the bottom.

The 45-degree angle also allows me to avoid snags versus pulling the harness farther behind the boat at a flatter angle.

Tips on hooking more fish

When a walleye grabs on to the harness, it normally is not a violent strike, but more of a swimming weight. Slowly drop the rod back without giving any slack, and after a couple of seconds, sweep the rod forward for a hookset.

The other option is to leave your rod secured in the rod holder. The rod will “load up” and the fish often seem to hook themselves.

When a walleye hits your harness, but doesn’t stay engaged, try dropping your rod tip back and let the harness freefall. Oftentimes, this hesitation and falling to the bottom of the harness will cause the trailing walleyes to eat.

If you don’t currently use ‘crawler harnesses, I encourage you to break out of your comfort zone and try them. They are versatile, catch everything and walleyes absolutely love them.

Looking for some new fishing techniques to try this season? You’ll find plenty of suggestions in every issue of MidWest Outdoors. Subscribe on our website.