If you’re looking for a different way to entice fish, Dan Galusha details the jerk jigging method.

“Finger jigging,” and another multi-species technique called “jerk jigging,” can be used in conjunction, with each placing a different action on a lure.

The lures used are the same: a soft plastic with a straight but flexible tail. Finesse worms of the 4-inch size will also work. Any normal lead head jig will work. The main thing you need is a head that allows the lure to jerk in different directions but return to the upright position.

The idea behind jerk jigging is to make the lure react like a darting baitfish trying to escape attack. The straight tail allows more of this type of action, rather than being interfered with by a swimming tail action such as a curl tail or swimbait-style tail.

I use spinning or casting to apply this technique but prefer 7-foot or 7’6” spinning rods, with reels spooled with 8- or 10-pound-test Nanofil line. Both rods allow good casting and place the correct action on the lure. They can also be used for finger jigging in case you want to switch over to that technique. The line selection is thin and strong with less twist, unlike any of the monofilament varieties.

Apply a fairly crisp jerk to the lure with about 3 feet of rod tip movement. It can be upward, or what I use most, a side sweep. Because the quick/crisp jerk can weaken a knot, it is advised to check the line tie often, and retie.

Between jerks, the lure will fall, which is why the lighter heads of no more than 1/8-ounce work best; 3/16- and 1/4-ounce will also work in open and deeper water.

Lighter heads also work better for weedy areas, such as big clumps of coontail and other such aquatic vegetation. The jerk can snap the lure loose from any weed hangups. In fact, in these conditions, constant jerking often works best, such as when walking the dog on a Spook-type topwater lure.

If there are clear areas parallel to weed beds, this technique can be dynamite. Fish hiding in the weeds see this frantic, darting bait jumping all over, which convinces them to come out and strike.

As you can tell, this is quite similar to fishing a Jerk Shad, but with a weight, and lacking the drastic side movement and flutter of a dying baitfish. This action mimics a healthy bait fish trying to escape.

I add Kick’n Bass Attractants to all of my lures, even the NFB products that already have the KNB in them. This is especially true when fishing the jerk jigging style and making several casts into the same general area to create an “odor zone.” The quick jerking disperses the scent while mixing it in the water at the same time. It can also create air bubble action, such as with the Ribb Finn that have ribbed bodies that hold scent and bubbles.

Watch for an area where baitfish are jumping or blowing up in schools, like a shad bust. This is a perfect place to use the “jerk” method, especially if paralleling a shore where several areas of baitfish are seen.

All the lures mentioned here work for jerk jigging, finger jigging and Slider fishing. With the correct rod/reel selection, and just one of the lures, you can alternately use all three techniques in any conditions and depths of water.

Here is an order of retrieves that I’ve found works well together. Start with the straight, no-action Slider, and then finger jig a ways before making the lure frantic with the jerk. This is like a minnow that’s going along without a care, then starts getting a little nervous before going into full, frantic escape mode. A lot of times, this will help select which technique will be the best to use.

Give the “jerk” a try. It just might jerk a few good ones to turn a slow day into a great day.

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