First ice often produces some of the best fishing of the entre hard-water season. It’s easy to understand why: The water is the most oxygenated it will be until the ice cover melts, the vegetation is still largely green and holding fish, and the fish haven’t settled into the doldrums as they will midwinter. Plus, anglers haven’t been fishing for them during the several-week transition to freeze-up. Thus, first ice is the time to get started.

First and foremost, there is one major consideration when fishing first ice: Safety! First ice is thin ice. And thin ice is dangerous. So, all the safety precautions you normally take when ice fishing are more important than ever.

The first rule is: Carry a spud bar. You can carry a hand auger or electric power auger for drilling holes, but you need the spud to check the ice, tapping the surface ahead of you as you walk out. If the spud goes through, back up. That’s just the wise way to go. Also, make sure you check your way out and then check your way back in. First ice is often uneven, and walking just steps away from a safe path could get you wet.

I’d recommend a float suit. I wear one on first ice. If I happen to fall through, I’ll be floating on the surface where I can get myself out or call for someone else to come and help me.

Always wear ice cleats, either cleated boots or strap-on models, or cleats that go over your boots like old- fashioned rubbers. First ice is often very slick and slippery, especially if it’s warm enough for there to be a little melt on top, and there’s water on the ice. Ice cleats help keep you from taking a tumble where you could wind up breaking your arm(s)—which would make it almost impossible to get back on your feet; or even worse, crack your head on the ice, which is just about as bad as hitting concrete. People have died because of that. Ice cleats can help save your life.

A pair of ice picks is a must. You can carry them in your pockets; better yet, many are attached to a lanyard that you can drape around your neck and, if you choose, run them right through the sleeves of your parka, like your mother used to do to keep you from losing your mittens when you were little. Then they are right there at your hands if you need them. You should carry them all the time, but especially at first ice (and again at last ice) when the risk of breaking through is greatest. Ice picks provide the purchase you need to climb back on the ice, which is a tough task even when the ice is thick.

I also always carry a rope in a bag. Some kits come as a long length of ropes inside a weighted plastic bag that is only about a foot long and maybe eight inches around. You take one end of the rope out, hang on to it and throw the bag to someone else. That way, if you do break through, you don’t have someone else crawling on the ice to get you, winding up with two people in the drink instead of just one. It’s a small insurance policy against possible catastrophe.

So, where to start? I usually begin by fishing for panfish—bluegills, crappies and perch—usually off the main body of the lake in cuts or canals. That’s where the best ice forms earliest in the shallows. If you’ve fished for panfish right up to just before ice-up, you know that they often move into those shallow cuts and canals leading up to ice formation. You can often catch limits of fish without having to travel far from the shore, which is a good idea at first ice.

If the ice is good enough to head out deeper—because you’ve checked it all the way out—then your best place to start is where you last caught them in open water. Wherever you left them before ice-up, they’re going to be right there. So, keep you GPS handy and go back to where you left them. That’s what a GPS is for, and that’s why you use it. If you have GPS coordinates, you’re ahead of the game. Go from spot to spot, and within a few moves, you’re going to be on the fish.

When you find fish, probe the area. Carry a jig rod, a dead rod and a tip-up. If you’re jigging and the fish don’t want what you’re moving, maybe they’ll go after a still presentation.

Always maximize the number of rods you are fishing with (within legal limits). You may find that one presentation is what they want. Offer them as many different techniques as you can to find out what they’re going to take. And make use of the structure you’re fishing. If you’re on a weed line or a drop-off, keep moving further along that structural element until you find fish.

I always recommend banging the bottom with whatever you’re using—like a jig, spoon or jigging Rapala. Pounding the bottom often calls fish in to you. The fish see the puffs of sediment or broken weeds and come over to investigate. They may not make a beeline to it; they’ll just sort of meander over to you, so do it for at least a few minutes to give them time to get there. You’re imitating other fish feeding, and they’re going to want to get in on it.

If you’re fishing for bluegills, crappies or perch, I recommend boring two holes close enough that you can fish them both at the same time. Having them close together creates more commotion and attracts more fish to the area. And the fish will see both presentations. If you’re using spikes or mousies, they’re often available in different colors. Use various colors until you can determine that one is outperforming others.

Good electronics are key. Once you get where you’re going, your sonar will tell you where the fish are in the water column. If you have side-finder sonar, you might find out that the fish in the area, but not necessarily right under you. Again, create commotion; it’s easier to try to call them in to you than to get up and move 50 feet and start over. It’s better to bring them to you than chasing them. If you can’t call them in, you can always move.

Just remember, when heading out on first ice, think safety first. If possible, bring a friend. If something should happen, it’s always better to have a partner to help you out of a jam.

The author shows off a first-ice bluegill.