I recently looked back at my records and realized that this was my 40th year of bobbing around Wisconsin lakes in a float tube. It’s been an obsession with me since the early 1980s. And although I have a couple “real boats,” if I had only one day left to fish, it would be in my float tube.

What’s a float tube? Here in Wisconsin, you don’t see them very often. Their popularity and origin may have begun with fly fishermen in high mountain trout lakes in western states. These lakes had no boat access, and fly fishermen needed to get further out than shoreline wading to get to giant trout. Back in the 1970s, I read about legends like Del Canty chasing giant rainbows and browns on Flaming Gorge from a float tube. I needed to get into some of that action myself.

Back then, float tubes, then referred to as “belly boats,” were a round, donut-shaped canvas cover with a primitive seat, all fitted over a truck tire inner tube. They were awful! They were heavy and uncomfortable, hard to get into, and hard to maneuver. Water seemed to be up to your rib cage, and you didn’t dare lean too far back or you got a trickle of lake water down the back of your chest waders. It’s all we had at the time, so we did the best we could.

Thankfully, sometime in the 1990s, “belly boats” became “float tubes” and there was no looking back. Float tubes were now U-shaped and provided easy entry with fins on your feet and a seat that resembled an easy chair in your living room—not a giant, bouncy seat for your toddler. They are incredibly comfortable, float you high off the water, and travel and maneuver with ease.

The basics of float tube setups obviously start with a float tube. You can still get an old round tube, but you really don’t want that. You want a U-shaped tube. Like everything in life, you get what you pay for. But you don’t need the best. Because of the lack of access to lakes in Europe, float tubes are a staple there, and some of the best in the world come from that part of the globe. These European models are luxurious with ample storage, rod holders, locators, and oars for longer travel. I feel the downfall of these big luxurious boats is their size and weight.

For me, the float tube gets me into lakes that have no access, and in many cases, no names. Portability is the key. I am walking through woods from 400 yards to a mile to get into some unknown bodies of water. These bigger float tubes can weigh close to 50 pounds, plus tackle, making their portability difficult.

There are a few very good float tubes available that are great fishing platforms, yet very light and portable. These come with backpack straps so the tube can be worn on you back for longer treks. Caddis, Outcast and Bucks Bags are three common brands available from tackle outlets. Personally, I believe the best float tube out there for the money is the Classic Accessories Cumberland coming in at about $260. I’m on my eighth season with my current model. This equates to roughly 700 to 800 outings, and outside of sun fading, it’s still rock solid. It’s taken a few buckthorn pokes to the inner bladder which are easily found and patched. The empty weight is 12 pounds! That’s portable!

Unless you want to wet wade, you probably want chest waders. Boot-foot or stocking foot with wading shoes both work. I use standard breathable waders most of the year, but I have heavily insulated ones for when the water is below 45 degrees or so in March, April and November. Standard waders will get you through most of the year. Layer clothing underneath them based on your comfort. Float tubing is like riding a bicycle backwards, so you stay pretty warm even if the water is cold.

Let’s talk propulsion. You move around backwards using foot fins. Most of them are in the $30 to $60 range, and as long as they fit your boots, they should work well. I like models made from a flexible rubber material. Avoid harder plastic models. Flexible rubber will give you a smooth flow while hard plastic will give you a choppy and noisy travel.

Most float tubes have left and right tackle compartments. They will hold a minimum of four Plano 3500 series tackle boxes. To some, that doesn’t seem like a lot. But that’s plenty of tackle for most situations you will encounter in a small float tube lake. It forces you to really think about what you need.

A lifejacket is a must, and if yours has pockets, it will hold other necessities like a pliers, braid scissors, and your cellphone.

In general, I carry two rods. One is a medium spinning rod and the other is a medium-heavy baitcaster. These two cover most lures for bass and pike fishing. One tucks next to your side, pointing out of the back of the boat as you fish with the other.

Websites like Wisconsin DNR Lake finder are a great help in your search. I normally look for lakes of 50 acres or less. There likely won’t be recent information, but a maximum depth is normally listed. If the depth is at least 12 to 15 feet, I will give it a thumbs up, knowing that it does not winterkill. I won’t waste time on a lake that has winterkill potential, knowing that the trophy potential is probably gone.

These little lakes are literally everywhere. You just need to figure out a way to get in. Find a clear spot on the bank to get in and leave a white rag tied to a nearby tree or bush to find your way back out. A lot of small lakes are fully wooded, and after a while, everything looks the same, so a marker is helpful—especially in the evening.

Float tubes can get you to waters you dream about. I’ve caught pike up to 41 inches and bass up to 24 inches on little lakes and abandoned quarries. They are unfished and untouched. There is virgin wilderness fishing right here in the Midwest. It just takes a little time and legwork to find it.

Looking for some new fishing techniques to try this season? You’ll find plenty of suggestions in every issue of MidWest Outdoors. Subscribe on our website.