Ron Stresing says when hunting pheasants, take a few moments to look over the playing field so you can not only hunt hard, but hunt smart!

One of the few advantages of pheasant hunting stocked public land is sometimes seeing what not to do! It’s not uncommon to see hunters form a skirmish line and push from thinner cover into thicker cover like cattail swamps. Yes, sometimes other hunters working a field dictate how you can safely hunt the cover. We have already waited and let other hunting parties pass by to hunt the cover the way we wanted.

Look over an area before forming your line and charging in. Are there small trees and brush? Pheasants will often hunker down under brush and trees to avoid avian predators. How about cattail swamps, ditches, wind breaks or other thick, overgrown areas of cover that escaping pheasants will run toward? Are there any natural barriers, or roads, walking trails, etc., that will help hem in a running bird? Dissect your hunt area into small, manageable sections. Take your time to work each section as efficiently as you can, to avoid glossing over birds that are holding tight.

Anticipate pheasants’ movements

On one memorable hunt, it was obvious pheasants were running way ahead of us. They were using trails to move from one thick grove of small trees to another. The trees were so thick and close together that they were impossible to walk through. As my cousin Ken and his Labrador worked towards a grove, I told Ken I was going to move ahead. I moved ahead of the grove to see if I could catch a rooster unaware. I made sure Ken knew my location and posted where I could see a game trail in the grass that exited the trees.

As Ken and his dog arrived at the front of the trees, I caught a rooster sneaking out along a trail, low to the ground. Had I not posted there, he would have gotten clean away. This time, he didn’t. Posting blockers can shortstop escaping birds and slow them down, keeping them in the drive longer. Position blockers at the end of fields, or choke points, but out of the line-of-fire of the other drivers. Know where the other hunters are at all times, and wear at least some Hunter Orange. Safety first.

Working the wind

Dog’s noses are amazing things, but like anyone who hunts deer will tell you, wind direction will cancel out the ability to pick up scent. You will have your best results working your dog into the wind. When lining up to hunt “birdy” looking cover, always try to put the wind direction in your favor.

Helping your dog

Even the best dogs can be confused when multiple pheasants cross tracks, or a wily rooster lays a false scent trail and doubles back. Remember, even stocked birds have the natural instincts that allow them to avoid both land and airborne predators. Add to this a rooster or two that has survived a few days’ worth of dogs and hunters and has garnered a little learned behavior.

Help your dog out by “flanking” or moving to the side or ahead, to cut the bird off from escape cover. Often, just the sudden appearance of a hunter in the pheasant’s path is enough to get it to flush.

Don’t walk a steady pace in a straight line. Stop for a few seconds at intervals, and zigzag, kicking likely hiding spots like brush piles or thick bushes. Pheasants are more than willing to hold tight to the ground, and let you walk by. Working slowly and deliberately is especially important when hunting ultra-thick cover, like frozen cattail swamps.

Guns and loads

Most hunters use a 12-gauge for both ducks and pheasants. A 20-gauge has its place, and I have killed a few birds with a 20-gauge. Personally, I’ll trade the extra two pounds more my 12-gauge weighs for the extra range. If I am working an area where ducks or geese might show up, I’ll carry only steel loads, and I’ll have a modified choke tube in. Modified choke is about right for 90 percent of your pheasant hunting with lead or steel. If you shoot only lead, try modified for most shooting, and full later for long flushes.

Carry both light and heavy pheasant loads. Early on, I use light game loads of 1 ounce of #6 shot, then progress to heavier field loads of 1-1/8-ounce field loads of # 5 or #6 shot. The lighter loads are also good for incidental small game that might show up like woodcock, squirrels or rabbits. The end of the season means heavy 1-1/4-ounce loads of #4 or #5 lead. Premium lead loads with copper- or nickel-plated shot will reach farther, and pattern better, but probably cost almost twice as much as standard lead ammo. If you are a hunter who has gone to all steel, try #3 or #4 steel for pheasants with a modified choke.

Putting it all together

It’s been said that the harder you work at something, the more successful you will be. Knowing that a pheasant would rather run than fly, anticipate their escape routes and shut the door on them. Run the birds out of cover, and you will be rewarded with that classic rising flush of a rooster pheasant.

For safe and effective hunting methods, check out the fall issues of MidWest Outdoors, available by subscribing on our website.