At this time of year, with warmer weather, Tim Huffman and Barry Morrow tell us to get out and enjoy some good crappie action.

Casting to wood on points

Crappies move based upon seasons and conditions. One spot they will likely be found in the spring is on a point. Points have a variety of depths where fish can move shallow or deep as needed. A variety of depths, along with some brush, stumps or other good cover, can be a good combination for success.

Guide and tournament pro, Barry Morrow notes, “Crappies are slowly migrating to shallower water, so they stop at good resting spots where they ambush food. A shallow brush pile on a point is a good place.

“We are talking about brush or wood cover with 1 to 4 feet of water over the top. I’ll be using a lightweight, 1/16-ounce jig to give a slow fall under the float—something like a Beaver Bottom body—and work it really slow.

“If crappies are not up shallow, it’s time to work the sides or further out on the point where it is deeper. The float may still only be at four feet to work the sides of the submerged brush and stumps, but the overall depth may be 6 to 10 feet deep.”

Morrow says casting the float/jig combo is simple. Cast past the brush, bring it back rapidly, then stop it over the cover. The jig swings down from the float and to the cover. If a fish is there, he’ll nail it. There will be some hang-ups, but that’s part of the game.

He says another trick is to use a loop knot. It causes the jig to have more movement compared to a knot cinched tightly against the jig eye. It helps mimic a live but injured baitfish, making it deadly to a crappie looking for a meal.

Fancasting shallow flats

“The ideal situation,” says Morrow, “is to find a flat that has a ditch or a small channel in it. By staying 30 yards or more from the drop, you’ll be catching fish that are in transition to and from spawning sites. The water may be 2 to 4 feet deep. It warms quickly with a little sunshine.”

A 1/16- or 1/8-ounce jig under a float, preferably a weighted float, allows for long casts. Cast the jig, and then reel it back slowly with a pause every couple of feet. The pauses are excellent at creating more strikes. Long casts reach fish that might be spooky of a boat.

Spawning pockets

The backs of coves are predictable places for spawning. Rocks, gravel and grass can add to the attracting power. The jig/float or minnow/float combination should be thrown as close to the bank as possible. A little stain in the water is all that’s needed for a fish to get extremely shallow, especially if the sun is warming the water.

Precisely matching the float to the bait is important. It should take very little pressure, up or down, to move the float and indicate a bite. Keep on the move and adjust depths until you find the right level for fish activity.

Pitching to steeper spawning banks

During the spawn, Morrow likes to fish by pitching to the bank instead of casting, when the situation allows. Riprap, rock and rock/mud banks with a nearby channel are perfect areas.

Morrow uses an 11-foot pole, 1/8-ounce jig and a slip-float. The long pole helps with the overall technique. A crappie float stays against the jig during the pitching motion, adding to the pitching accuracy. A bobber-stop on the line sets the depth.

“The pitch is nothing more than swinging the bait back with the long pole and swinging it back forward. By keeping it about a foot off the water, a fisherman has great control, and it makes almost no splash when it hits the water. I’m usually fishing 1- to 3-feet deep water, with the float set at eight inches.

Morrow says every situation is different, but crappies react similarly in most waters when it’s time to spawn.

Want to get back to the basics of spring fishing? Read the May issue of MidWest Outdoors, available the first full week of May at the newsstand or by subscribing on our website.