Just like his fishing strategies, Josh Hagemeister tries to keep his hunting strategies simple—good land, a good dog, and a good plan of attack—each of which is worth about 33 percent of a good hunt.

For now, I’m going to key on the strategy portion of the equation. So, you pull up to a good-looking spot (food, water, cover); in fact, the birds are flying around, running into the cover across the road in front of the truck, cackling—all that good stuff. Should be easy, right? Could be…or not at all.

Control noise

Pretend you’re deer hunting. Leave the noise at home. I typically park way downwind in a low spot. I’m going to work the dogs into the wind anyway, plus the wind carries any noise away from the hunting area.

I know this is basic, but don’t forget to not slam the car doors when you get out. It’s like an alarm clock to wild birds. Try not to carry on a long, loud conversation about the plan of attack; get that done in the truck before you get out.

No whistles or beeping dog collars, either. Train your dog to read hand signals or listen to soft noises/clicks, etc. A well-trained dog that hunts close (10 to 20 yards) and isn’t a bird chaser shouldn’t need anything loud to control it. (Running after your dog chasing a running bird with a loaded gun is noisy, unsafe and frankly rude to other hunters.).

Speed

Part of the fun of a pheasant hunt is watching the dog(s) methodically locate, pin and flush the birds. A nice, slow pace, with frequent stops will out-produce any fast-paced hunt. The dog has the nose, let it guide the hunt.

Again, a well-trained dog will take its time and hunt close. A poorly trained dog will work faster than you can walk, get way out ahead of the group, chase birds and push the birds too fast, causing worthless out-of-range flushes. Slow and methodical hunting will keep any pheasant tucked in much longer and help keep the bird from running or flushing prematurely.

Work the edge

The edge factor is just as important in pheasant hunting as it is when fishing or deer hunting. Sure, there are birds in the middle of huge tracts of CRP or endless cornfields—but save that for later and work the edges first. Crop edges are key. It seems that most active birds are within 100 yards or less of the crop edge. When at all possible, work the edges of where different food sources or cover collide or “mesh” together, into the wind or crosswind, to give the dogs an advantage. Experienced dogs can hunt any wind, but it’s always better to hunt into the wind or crosswind.

A classic edge is where soybean or cornfields connect to grassy/CRP type of cover. The edges of sloughs or ponds are also obvious targets. Fence corners where four different fields/crop/cover types meet can also be good.

Visual edges close to the road or parking areas will always be hunted heavily. Look for edges that are a long walk from any road or over difficult terrain. These will often hold birds that have not been hunted as much. And, if you spot an edge that is “marginal” or doesn’t look all that good—hunt it! It probably has been overlooked by most hunters for the same reason!

Trust the dog

Follow the dog. Trust me, the dog knows much more about where the birds are hiding. The minute my dog gets out of the truck, she is nose-in-the-air, finding scent. If there are a bunch of birds in a plot, she will tell me instantly. If she gets out of the truck and there are no birds in the plot, she knows it—and we leave.

If my dog tells me there are a bunch of birds in the plot and I have a mental plan to start on a certain edge, I scrap my plan and follow her aimlessly into the plot/cover. She is always right! Let the dog steer you; you don’t steer the dog.

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