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Shallow-Running Cranks For Weed-Relating Largemouth BY TIM ALLARD
Weeds are one of the most important types of cover in largemouth bass fishing. Many anglers have become conditioned to toss Texas-rigged plastics, flipping jigs, topwater frogs and spinnerbaits around weeds because they’ll not foul easily on stalks and leaves. These lures will work well, but sometimes shallow-running crankbaits deliver better catches around weeds. If you’re not tossing crankbaits around weeds, you’re missing out on a big-fish producer. Here’s what you need to know about this presentation in shallow water scenarios.
WHY FISH THE WEEDS WITH CRANKS?
I’ll be the first to admit you’ll get hung up when working
crankbaits in weeds. The odd hangup is worth it though because crankbaits
deliver a presentation that weedless baits can’t deliver. Their wobbling creates
turbulence in the water and internal rattles really appeal to largemouth on
certain days. Add to these traits the reality that many anglers are reluctant to
toss baits around weed areas, so with a crank you’re likely offering bass a bait
they haven’t seen in a while, at least in weedy cover anyway. Although an occasional snag is the nature of this presentation, you can often minimize foul-ups by choosing the right baits for the weed area you’re fishing. For this reason, I like floating, shallow-running crankbaits in skinny water, weed areas. |
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SHALLOW RUNNERS
Shallow-running crankbaits are extremely effective for
fishing weed areas. Some baits literally skim only inches below the surface
while others dive to a few feet. Which style of bait you opt for depends on the
weed conditions you’re fishing. Examples of these lures include Mann’s 1-Minus
series, Bagley’s Wake’n B, or Rapala’s DT Fat Series.
In most shallow, weed conditions, I like to use a floating
crankbait designed to stay in the top foot of the water column, but often keep
the bait bulging just beneath the surface on slow retrieves. This mimics an easy
and vulnerable target for bass in the area. These particular cranks afford me
plenty of advantages in the skinny water.
TOP CASTING SPOTS
As the bait has a shallow running depth it remains visible
during the retrieve. This lets me watch the lure and steer it around obstacles
and through floating weed areas. I’ll guide the crank through sparsely grown
lily pads or along the edge of surface plants, like reeds or arrow heads.
Staying close to the surface also makes the bait perfect for running over weed
tops without digging into the vegetation. If I bump a log or rock, I stop the
retrieve and often the floating crank will back up and out of the obstruction.
As baits float I’ll often pitch them into large pockets. If there’s a bass
around I usually only get in a few turns of the reel handle before a bucketmouth
crushes the crankbait.
THE RIGHT WEED STICK
When casting shallow-running crankbaits around weeds, the
workhorse of my lineup is a heavy-power, fast-action casting rod. This stick
easily handles the heavy, plastic crankbaits I like to use. Its power also
easily pulls big fish quickly from heavy cover, ensuring I don’t give bass an
inch of string to tangle my line in the underwater obstacles.
As I’m often using this pole for shallow water
presentations, I spool it up with 17-pound test, abrasion-resistant
monofilament. Mono’s floating characteristics keeps the lure running high in the
water column. Also, because I’m using such a stiff stick, I like that mono
offers a bit of stretch to help bass engulf the offering. If you choose mono,
regularly inspect your line for wear and tear when working cover and retie at
the slightest sign of weakness.
Weeds are one of the most important types of cover in
largemouth bass fishing. It might seem counter-intuitive to toss a multi-treble
hook bait in a snag-laden area, but cranks can cough up big bass out of weeds
when other lures don’t produce. Yes, casting these baits requires patience as
occasional foul-ups are part of the game, but the effort is worth it when you
lip a sow from the green caught on a crank.
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